Extra Virgin Olive Oil from the Ashes

On July 3, 2021, Demetris Taliotis and his wife Electra watched as a wildfire tore through one of the two olive groves that make up Aparthenasa, their 6.5-hectare regenerative farm in Cyprus.

Spread across two sites — the mountainous Vavatsinia region of the Troodos range, 600 meters above sea level, and a smaller grove in the Sia hills of the Nicosia district — the certified organic farm produces award-winning olive oils from copper- and iron-rich alluvial soils. They produce two olive cultivars under a regenerative and agroforestry framework: the indigenous Cypriot Kato Drys olive variety, and the Greek Koroneiki variety. 

What could have marked the end of their journey instead became the catalyst for a deeper commitment to regeneration.“The fire angered us,” Demetris recalls, “but it also gave us the passion not to abandon our project and to regenerate the grove again.”

The couple doubled down on regenerative farming and research, transforming the burned landscape with the support of an army of 180 chickens. Their persistence has since led to exciting collaborations and the production of premium, monovarietal, high-phenolic extra virgin olive oil. 

“To turn charred land into internationally recognized olive oil, while hares, bees and wild lavender return is what regenerative farming means to us,” he explains. 

Data-Driven Farming Performed with Muddy Hands

Demetris believes that knowledge is power. This is evident in how he farms. By combining a research-first mindset with a terroir-driven approach, Aparthenasa combines modern science with ancient tradition that upholds farming as a craft. “We employ soil sensors, precision agriculture technology, soil sampling, biodiversity counts, and crop and water analysis alongside the old way of doing things,” Demetris explains. “We also use our bare hands.”

Aparthenasa also operates its own climate-controlled olive oil storage and olive oil filtration facility. The family is working to build their own boutique olive mill for themselves and other local producers. Demetris explains, “We want to showcase olive oil from multiple small producers to retain value locally and also improve the CO2 footprint of olive oil in the area.” 

His big dream is to establish a research center dedicated to regenerative agriculture and circular farming systems rooted in traditional mountainous olive groves. “I firmly believe agriculture is a knowledge-producing sector, perhaps even more than a food-producing one,” he says. “From the field, we can generate and share the knowledge needed to navigate the extreme weather patterns driven by climate change.”

Demetris envisions the center as a hub for collaboration across disciplines. “We will bring together academics, farmers, food technologists, political analysts, investors, and agronomists, who believe in agriculture and especially regenerative olive growing as a key mechanism for the transition to a fairer, resilient and regenerative society.”

Making Soil the Mission

Demetris has trained as an expert olive oil organoleptic taster at the University of Jaen in Spain and is a jury panel member at numerous international olive oil competitions  as well as being a member of the Halloumi PDO sensory panel in Cyprus. He also serves as a Mission Soil Ambassador for the European Commission’s Mission Soil project, helping connect local farming practices with broader European conversations around soil health, rural development, food policy, and regeneration.

“Our groves are living labs for various local and European projects,” he explains. “We actually love when a project fails because of the learnings you can take into the next attempt.”

Demetris actively shares his research and insights through podcasts, conferences, tastings and seminars across Cyprus, focusing on agriculture, climate change, sustainability and olive oil production. For him, being part of Top 50 Farmers is another opportunity to exchange ideas, learn from others and share the discoveries emerging from Aparthenasa.

Ultimately, Demetris is working alongside farmers, agronomists, researchers, olive millers, social enterprises, academics and the next generation of growers to help decommodify olive oil production. “This will allow Aparthenasa and other like-minded producers to prioritize regenerative farming as a way to create healthier soils and healthier lives.” he explains.” 

“There is a reason I call myself the Chief Olive Oil Obsessive at Aparthenasa,” Demetris says with a smile. “Transitioning agriculture toward regeneration is one of the most exciting things you can do right now. Once you begin the journey of regenerating land and protecting nature, you can’t help but become obsessed.”

Written by Top 50 Farmers & Tim Phedon